
This weeks post is dedicated to the memory of my great-aunt Maura who passed this week in Ottawa, Canada at the age of 97. As a child my great-grandfather took her to Ireland to learn the art of step dancing and spent many years practicing her craft. Maura had an amazing life that contained none of the things that normal people were supposed to do and apologized to no one. She was everything from a loving wife, a friend of the Windsors and traveling companion to the widow of one Dr. Scholls. Our relationship included only a few brief meetings, letters and the sad little boxes of tea I used to send her. I had always wished I had known her better.
My great-grandfather came from Ireland.
He left Ireland in 1903.
He taught school in Canada.
That was from a family history project I did when I was in kindergarten. It is probably the most thorough account of my grandfather’s crossing from Ireland and as you can see it isn’t much. What I do know is that despite the 106 years since my great-grandfather’s immigration to Canada, it remains one of the most well known and yet unknown pieces of my family history. The only part we are certain of is that he was from a little town in the county Roscommon on the banks of the Shannon River. From there the lines are blurred and other than a few slip ups by my grandmother the only thing I have discerned is that there is much more to the story that we will never know.
All of my life I have felt drawn to the Irish part of me, perhaps it has something to do with my name, I’m not sure. But while my heritage remains a mystery, the history, music, and literature of this multi-faceted land have always been a passion of mine. From afar, I’ve skipped school with Joyce’s wild west loving schoolboys, wandered the broad and narrow streets of Molly Malone, and felt the injustice of the world with Bono and Larry. Even as I type this, I continually lose focus and feel compelled to sing along with The Waterboys blaring from my ipod. I am immensely proud of the cultural and culinary movements going on in Ireland today. More school children are learning the Gaelic tongue*, and items such as locally raised meat, cheese, and vegetables are gaining worldwide renown and Irish pride is surging. Although only a part of my background, it is a part I am exceptionally proud of.
But there is more to the story the story of an immigrant and his or her descendants.
There is a great misconception out there about the American view of Irish culture and we take a fair bit of ribbing about our corned beef and cabbage suppers on St. Patrick’s Day. The general thought is that we all believe that the Irish tuck into large plates of it every evening, when it is in fact (especially back east), a way to remember our immigrant roots. After all, the United States has the largest population of Irish outside of Ireland itself, with about 40% of all Irish in the world living here. When most Irish came to this country at beginning of the 20th century, they had little money and very often corned beef and cabbage was what they turned to for sustinance. As they became more American, these foods fell out of step with the life and food in Ireland, but this dish remained the very thing that Irish/American descendants turned to remember the land of their forbearers.
Now after my grand defense of the corned beef and cabbage supper, I must confess to you that I have never actually eaten it. My St. Patrick’s Day supper was (is) a warm sandwich that I grew up believing was straight from Ireland, but with the exception of the mustard, was actually from the Carnegie Deli; it was the Reuben sandwich. Who knew that sauerkraut wasn’t Irish? My grandmother was German, what can I say, we are a motley crew. That gross ignorance aside, I have decided that it is high time that I explore the foods of Ireland and have chosen boxty as my starting point.
Boxty is the lovechild of a blini and a latke after a particularly good vacation to Ireland. This pan fried treat can be served as (as far as I know) a crisp little cake, a dumpling and as sort of a wrapper or crepe. The boxty is potato perfect with local potatoes, creamy and flavorful on the inside with crispy edges. I’ve decided to make sort of a napoleon out of mine, using the more wrapper-like form and stuffing it with a few things from my American side, fresh crab, avocado and cayenne pepper. The combination is fantastic and would be perfect for brunch, lunch, dinner or even made smaller for an appetizer. Enjoy!
The Boxty
3 Medium Russet Potatoes, roasted and peeled
1 1/2 cups Buttermilk
2 Red Potatoes, grated
1/2 cup Flour
2 Eggs, beaten
Few pinches Salt
1 tsp Baking Soda
1 recipe Crab Filling
Creme Fraiche
A few Whole Chives, to garnish
Place the russet potatoes and the buttermilk in a bowl and mash until smooth, then stir in the grated potatoes. Stir in the flour a little at a time. After it is completely incorporated mix in the eggs, salt and baking soda.
Heat a well seasoned or non-stick pan over medium to medium high heat and add in butter, bacon fat or olive oil. Add in a ladle full of batter and cook each side until brown and crispy on the edges. Drain on paper towels and layer with the crab filling and creme fraiche.
The Crab Filling
12 oz Cooked Crab, shelled and broken up
1 Avocado, diced
2 TBS Lemon Juice
1-2 TBS Chives, snipped
A pinch or so Sea Salt
A pinch or so Cayenne Pepper
Combine ingredients in a bowl and toss gently so as not to demolish the avocado.
Serves 4
*My Gaelic is extremely limited. But if I feel the occasion calls for it I know how to say, “Ta mo bhriste tri thine” .








Lovely, Erin.
Thank you Francesca, and so lovely to see you back.
Sorry to hear of your loss Erin. I bet she would have had wonderful stories to share if you’d be able to spend more time with her.
Looks and sounds delicious, and what an intriguing story! I am having brunch this weekend for family so this may very well be the extra something I’m looking for… Thanks!
It looks wonderful, Erin. Lovely to read your musings about your heritage and I like that your dish celebrates both parts of your roots.
I can sympathize with your lack of in depth knowledge of your family history. I think it’s probably pretty common with mutts like us. I wish I knew more, but nevertheless I enjoy playing up my red hair and letting people believe I’m more Irish than I really am. I think it makes them happy.
This recipe sounds delicious. Do you think Richard could swing it for me for my first Mother’s Day..? I don’t think so either.
Erin Go Bragh!
Barbara, thank you very much. She was an elegant sort of woman, the sort of woman I hope to turn into.
Lydia, thank you. I hope you enjoy my recipe!
Angela, I think that is why I love food so much, each dish is infused with so many different stories. It is a great way to get to know a past you never knew.
Leslie, Are you Irish at all? I remember getting offended on St. Patrick’s Day with everyone assuming you were the Irish one. I think Richard could manage, just let him do it in free form layers instead of getting the rings involved. It may not be as pretty, but it will be just as delicious! Happy Mother’s Day
I think I would have liked your great aunt very much. my step mom’s Irish and I grew up with corned beef boiled with cabbage, onions, potatoes and carrots–a few times a year and I do it myself to this day. In Newfoundland, the most Irish of our provinces it is called Jigg’s Dinner!
Harrumph! Bono… bah! The Undertones, Stiff Little Fingers and the Pogues that’s more like it!
And don’t forget Edna O’Brien and the fabulous short story writer, Frank O’Connor. Also, the Ulster Cycle of myths and the wonderful folktales too. Irish Literature is fabulous. Right up to Roddy Doyle, The Commitments, Paddy Clarke, Ha, ha, ha.
Also, don’t forget Colcannon which is a wonderful dish (and very filling)!
I’m Irish at heart. Actually, I’m mostly German and English and I’ve heard my Grandpa say he’s Scots-Irish, which I think is Scotsman who went to the north of Ireland to take the land on behalf of the King as a way of colonization. Sorry about that.
David, I believe you would have.
Griffin, Bono, maybe, but Larry? While my elementary compatriots were drooling over New Kids On The Block I was head over heels in love with one Larry Mullen Jr. (sigh), and the music of U2 has been a constant thread in my life ever since. You know, I’ve never had
Colcannon and until now wasn’t sure if it was Irish or Welsh! I figured either way it covered one side of my family!
Leslie, I’ve always considered you one of my people, so it’s okay with me.
There’s also William Butler Yeats who wrote some fabulous poetry… like Boxty only wordier!
Have never heard of Larry Mullen… Jr or Sr. But growing up SLF and the Undertones were very much a presence here. And for some reason, Christy Moore too.
Yes, the Scots-Irish are Loyalists, Orangemen. The English were good at causing trouble abroad and if they could find someone else to do it for them…! But now we have a wonderful new hope in Northern Ireland with the Loyalists and Sinn Fein working together. When Martin McGuinness and Ian Paisley can work together you know there is hope. Now if they could just do that in Israel…
I am about as Irish as Pandikari, but I love the Irish stories, poems and music. Yeats is amazing, but Penguin Books once did (don’t know if they still do) a book called ‘A Celtic Miscellany’ and most of that was Irish poems and folktales – quite wonderful.
This was such a great tribute to your aunt.
And I actually just had corned beef and cabbage for the first time last weekend (not on St. Patty’s day). My mother-in-law made it for us (though no one in my wife’s family is irish) and it was delicious! We had it with mustard on the side, though I think I preferred it without.
Griffin, you know I’ve never read much Yeats. I think I’ll have to change that, thanks!
Marvin, Thank you very much. The whole time I ws writing this post I was thinking how envious I was of your direct connection from where your family came from. You are very lucky to be surrounded by that kind of knowledge and history.