Stock Tips (hee, hee)

For me, making stock is not a recipe, but more like “guidelines”. Each time I make it there is a different result depending on my mood. Today I am making ham stock with peppercorns, carrots and onion; it smells fabulous. I expect Phil will come floating in from work like a Looney Tunes character hypnotized by the intoxicating cloud my stock pot exudes. Some of you may be curious to know where all of my aromatics are. The truth is that with the exception of the pepper I just wasn’t in the mood for all of the extras. The ham bone is so full of flavor and depth that it doesn’t require much altering.

There are many stock purists out there who will tell you that unless you have prepped your classical mirepox and bundled your bouquet garni that you are not really making a stock. To each their own perhaps, but I really think they are missing out on the creative nature of cuisine. What could possibly be better as a base for avgolemono soup than a chicken or vegetarian stock flavored with fennel and onions with a bundle of dill and parsley thrown in for good measure. My cider roasted chicken yielded a beautiful stock subtly flavored with thyme and cider perfect for a delicately flavored vegetable soup or to add a layer of flavor to a roasted turnip and potato mash.

Cooking is a highly personal thing.  All too often people shy away from creativity and allow themselves to be intimidated by elaborate cookbooks and overwritten recipes. If I had my way every person who is afraid to stray from a recipe should stop themselves from tossing out those chicken/beef/lamb/etc. bones,  take a look at any leftover herbs and unused vegetables they have and make a pot of stock and see what it does to your food. There is no elaborate technique for making it and no matter what Larousse* has to say on the subject you can add whatever your heart desires. That being said, if your heart desires cotton candy in your stock, you are probably someone who should rethink your hearts desire.

There are only three rules that should be followed when making stock. The first is that if you are making a meat based stock, you really need to roast your bones first. This will increase the depth of flavor. Second is that you should not boil your stock, a gentle simmer is enough. The third rule is that you should always skim the fat. I know many believe fat equals flavor and often times it does, but unless you want a greasy feel to your soup, skim the fat. Below are the steps for making a delicious pot of stock, I have left the quantities up to you, just don’t be stingy with the goods, it will take at least one carcass for a pot of stock.

Stock

Step 1: Roast your bones and remove to your stock pot. (skip this if you are making a vegetarian stock)

Step 2: Cover your bones with water and bring to a gentle simmer, uncovered checking every so often for foam to skim.

Step 3: After 3-4 hours after about half of the liquid has reduced, add in your aromatics (herbs & spices) and roughly chopped vegetables. That is unless you added them in the beginning. Fill your pot back up with water.

Step 4: Simmer your stock another few hours, strain through a sieve, allow to come to room temperature and refrigerate.

Step 5: Chill your stock for several hours. The fat will solidify at the top making it incredibly simple to skim off.

Note: Sometimes I brown the vegetables before adding the water, it all depends on how deeply flavored I want the stock to be or if I am making a vegetarian stock. I know it strays from the norm, but what can I say; I like to rattle cages.

Also, if you aren’t in a foam skimming mood strain your stock through cheese cloth at the end or come to terms with the layer of film.

Somewhere Michael Ruhlman is having a mild aneurysm.

* Don’t let that comment fool you, I am passionate about Larousse Gastronomique and believe everyone with a kitchen should possess a copy.

** The sunflowers pictured are courtesy of Phil and Barney. When they picked me up from the airport Phil had them tucked into Barney’s harness.