The Endive Chronicles

Sitting down to an over-sized bowl filled with crunchy vegetables, paper thin beef, rice noodles and creamy tofu all swimming in hot fragrant broth is one of those simple things that just puts a smile on my face. I was first introduced to pho (pronounced fuh) nine years ago by my co-worker Eliz. Each day Eliz would bring in a small vat of pho from the Vietnamese restaurant down the street and each day I would watch him as he gleefully and rather comically ate his pho, all the while wondering what was the big deal. At that time I didn’t really get how amazing simplicity in cuisine truly was and figured that unless it came in the form of a napoleon, vol au vent or needed to be set on fire it probably wasn’t worth my time. Thankfully curiosity trumped my youthful snobbery (some may say ignorance), and one day I asked Eliz for a taste of his pho bo. I still remember how spicy, tangy and full bodied that first taste was and how I knew that he would be splitting the rest of the container with me.

While Phil and I were apartment hunting in April we had dinner with my sister at an amazing Vietnamese restaurant in Federal Way*. I love walking into an ethnic restaurant and not hearing a stitch of English, it seems to signify that something really delicious is in store. The restaurant was full of Vietnamese families gathering for dinner, doing homework and sharing their day; it felt as if we were entering someone’s private dining room. We were served a lovely pot of jasmine tea, ordered fresh spring rolls with an amazing sesame coconut sauce, potstickers, bun cha and my beloved pho. I blissfully munched, sipped and slurped my meal, only coming up for air long enough to help my sister hone her chopstick skills**. This lesson did not go unnoticed by an elderly woman at the next table who took great delight in mimicking my movements and openly laughing at us. Slightly mean old lady aside, this was one of the best meals I have had in a long time. Hot, simple and delicious.

Four years ago when I moved away from Seattle to the Hamptons I had to face the harsh reality that there was not going to be any pho for a very long time. I still have yet to find a Vietnamese restaurant in the area (or out of the area for that matter). There was nothing for it, I had to create my own recipe and become my own supplier. I found an Asian market thirty miles*** away that, in the early days, was the only supplier of rice sticks and fish sauce I could find. Since then I’ve come up with some really delicious and rather interesting flavor combinations, but I always go back to one basic recipe that I am sharing with you today.

There are three secrets I have found in creating a spectacular bowl of pho, Number one: You must have a delicious and well seasoned broth. You can always dress it up with condiments later, but if you don’t have a good foundation it just won’t work. Number two: Cut your ingredients as uniform as possible. This may seem anal retentive, but it allows them to cook more evenly and makes them easier to eat with chopsticks. Last but not least, number three: After the broth, noodles, meat and veg have been combined let your bowl of pho rest for a few minutes. I know it is difficult, but the flavors won’t be fully developed if you dive right in. Besides, you’ll save yourself from a heinously burned tongue.

Pho

Serves 4-6 depending on the size of your bowl.
For the Broth

10 cups low sodium stock (I use chicken), homemade or store bought it’s up to you

1/4 cup fish sauce

Juice of 1 lime

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 wild lime leaf

1-2 inches ginger, sliced into coins

In a stock pot combine all of the ingredients and bring to a simmer. Allow broth to simmer from 2-4 hours. Before serving fish out the garlic, ginger, lime leaf and bring it to an angry boil so it will be hot enough to cook the meat and veg arranged in your bowls.

Be very careful with this boiling broth. I had an incident a few months ago in which I ladled the broth into my hand instead of the bowl. Let’s just say it was one of the more painful things I have experienced.

The Noodles, Meat and Veg

1 pkg Rice noodles, cook according to the manufacturers instructions

Then choose some or all of the following:

Bean sprouts

Baby Bok Choy, sliced

Cabbage, shredded

Snow Pea Pods, julienned

Scallions, julienned

Basil, cut into a chiffonade (I highly recommend the addition of this ingredient)

Bell Pepper, julienned

Beef, sliced paper thin (I like to toss it with a splash of soy sauce)

Silken Tofu, sliced and strained

Scallops

Prawns

Whatever you can think of!

In planning allow for about 2 cups of mixed veg for each person counting seconds. Arrange the prepared ingredients in your bowl and ladle over the scalding hot broth. Add your garnishes and allow about five minutes or so for the broth to cook the meat/veg and allow the flavors to meld.

Many like to add cilantro to pho and most of the time I am no exception. However in this incarnation it really only serves to make the soup taste soapy.

To Garnish:

Lime Wedges - Sri Racha - Sambal Oelek - Fish Sauce - Ketjap Manis - Soy Sauce - Nuoc cham - Prik Nam Pla

* “If there’s a bright center to the universe, you’re on the planet that it’s farthest from” - Luke Skywalker

**As a joke we bought Angie a one piece chopstick the next day at Uwajimaya.

*** Some might think me a little ridiculous for going all that way, but anyone who knows me understands the lengths I will go to for a taste of home.

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