Mar 28 2008
Jerusalem Artichoke Chips with Lemon Bagna Cauda
Even as a kid I was wild about artichokes. I love everything from their unusual shape and color to scraping every morsel off each petal. I even love the mountain of spent petals that forms on my plate; the higher it gets, the closer I am to the sweet, buttery heart. I find the flavor so delightful that I was over the moon to discover in recent years there are two veggies that mimic the flavor (if not the texture) of artichokes; cardoons and Jerusalem artichokes.
For those of you who don’t know, the cardoon is a relative of the artichoke, but has the look and texture of very fibrous celery. I had never seen it before moving to the Hamptons and have since learned it is a frequent star in wintertime Italian cookery and was brought to New York by Italian immigrants. This is all quite interesting, but we aren’t here to discuss cardoons; are we? The real reason we are here is to talk about the elusive, at least to me, Jerusalem artichoke. Native to North America, the Jerusalem artichoke oddly enough is not commonly found here. In fact, Jerusalem artichokes aren’t even artichokes. I first read about it in a magazine some time ago, but did not run into it until two years ago while browsing the produce section of Uwajimaya. I lugged them back to New York and made them into a simple tian that we just couldn’t get enough of.
Since then I have kept a weather eye out for these tasty tubers, even harassing local farmers all claiming ignorance to the artichokey goodness and thwarting my every attempt. My frustration was even fueled by the placement of Jerusalem artichokes on several “in season” lists by certain local magazines ‘in the know’.Then finally two weeks ago while browsing at my local organic market, I spotted these nubby little wonders and snatched them up despite their exorbitant price. I mulled over the possibilities and in the end decided to pay homage to the veg that started it all. I made them into chips to emulate the artichoke petals and replaced the usual garlic butter with a rustic and tempting bagna cauda.
Jerusalem Artichoke Chips
3lbs Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed well and sliced with a mandoline or in the food processor
Equal parts Canola and Olive oil
Fleur de Sel, to taste
In a high sided pot, heat the oil to 350F. Work in small-is batches frying them to a golden brown about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain them out on paper towels and salt while they are still hot.
*If you aren’t planning to cook the right away, store them in the fridge in lemon water as the become discolored rapidly. Be sure to pat them dry before frying or you will have a sputtery mess of oil.
Lemon Bagna Cauda
1/3 cup olive oil
4-5 TBS butter
8 garlic cloves, smashed
4 anchovy fillets
1/2 lemon juiced
1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
Toss ingredients in a small sauce pan and simmer on low until the anchovies have disintegrated and the garlic is soft. Using an immersion blender, blend the bagna cauda until smooth. It will separate, so keep a fork handy to give it a quick whip after serving.
Serve with Jerusalem artichoke chips, any fresh or cooked veg, fish or whatever your imagination comes up with.
*If you do not possess an immersion blender, you can blend the mixture in your blender, but be extremely careful. Hot liquid in a blender can be dangerous as my friend Sam can attest.
