The Endive Chronicles

Several months ago, I heard about an organization in Italy dedicated to the preservation of regional Italian food heritage. Home Food is collaboration between the Association for the Guardianship and Exploitation of the Traditional Culinary-Gastronomic Heritage of Italy, the Ministry of Agriculture Politics and the University of Bologna (whew!), all dedicated to keeping familial culinary traditions alive. Home Food is unique in the fact that your host or *Cesarine will not be a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, but a home cook with vast knowledge of the food and local product history of her region. On a recent trip to Rome I had the opportunity of taking part in one of their events.

After the registration and acceptance process you are invited to dine at the home of your Cesarine. We were fortunate enough to be welcomed into the home of our cesarine, Nella and her husband Luigi. Not only was Nella a tremendous cook and knowledgeable about the cookery of Lazio, but she was one of the loveliest people I have ever had the privilege to meet.

Getting to the home of our Cesarine was an adventure in itself. The night was dark, cold and rainy as we climbed into our cab. The streets of Rome were clogged with cars and scooters. It occured to me as I watched a scooter sliding out of control that the Romans probably don’t drive in the rain very often. As the minutes ticked by, our anxiety grew as we recalled a stern warning against tardiness. Sensing our anxiety, our kind but slightly misguided driver offered us sections of orange and cigarettes to help ease our minds.

As we reached the Salario Hills, traffic lightened as did our drivers inhibitions. In search of the elusive Via Cesare Fani, we streaked down wet streets, bowled over medians and shook our fists at scooter drivers. Finally after stopping three times for directions (and achieving greater understanding of the Pope’s call for driver safety), we reached our destination.

We were buzzed in by Nella’s husband Luigi, an energetic, lively man in his sixties, who came bounding down the stairs to greet us. We were ushed into a cozy apartment filled with books, art and the most enticing cooking smells imaginable, where we met Nella, our Cesarine. Nella is not only the quintessential hostess and wonderful cook, but spirited and interesting. The other guests were actually good friend of Nella and Luigi’s and the four together made some of the most delightful dinner companions I have ever had.

We started our meal with antipasti of olives, artichokes and the most succulent sundried tomatoes I have ever had, served with a *local red wine. Next we had *Gradoli beans flavored with sofrito, seasonings and dressed with a lavish dose of *olive oil from the more than two thousand year old trees of the Sabina region of Lazio. Talk about connecting yourself to history.

Next up was my personal favorite, the fennel and celery salad. In the beginning I was actually dreading this dish as raw fennel is usually on the short list of things I will not eat, but Nella’s dish has changed my mind. The vinagrette she used tamed the bold anise flavor, but did not to drown our the flavors of the *local pecorino romano that was highlighted in this salad. At dinner, I couldn’t get enough of this dish. When I returned home I immediately set out to create my own version (recipe to come).

Then we were treated to semolina gnocchi which was comfort food in its highest form. This dish is a mixture of semolina, milk, parmigiano reggiano, butter and eggs. The gnocchi are cut into circles, layered in a pan and baked till crispy on top. Each bite was heaven, I had to stop myself from finishing my dish or have no room for the next course; saltimbocca alla romana. A dish of veal, ham and sage sauteed in olive oil, saltimbocca alla romana is delicious. According to Home Food this dish is not native to Rome, but has been adopted and stamped with a uniquely Roman seal. The accompanying dish reminded my husband of the Lithuanian kugeli his mother makes. Potatoes guanciale (meat made of a pigs cheek and throat), was a welcome taste of home.

Our meal was punctuated by a trio of desserts, starting with the traditional pizza polenta. This Roman dessert is comprised of *local sheep’s milk, ricotta, polenta, sugar, pine nuts and sultanas. Pizza polenta is part crust, part cookie and makes for an elegant dessert bite. The next offering was the most delicious dish of poached pears I have ever had. Delicately scented with oranges and anise this was a very familiar yet unique dessert.
Last, but certainly not least was the torta ai cioccolato. At first it seemed as if it would be dry and a bit crumbly, but those words ceased to exist once this miraculous sweet hit my tongue dissolving into creamy oblivion. I was devastated to learn that this was a closely guarded family recipe and was not to be revealed. I studied each bite carefully and have hopes to one day figure out the secret. For now I will visit the torta ai cioccolato in my daydreams.

I would like to thank Nella, Luigi and the Home Food Project for providing us with this unique cultural experience; it will stay with us for the rest of our lives. For those of you interested in culinary tradition, I encourage you to experience Home Food.

* A Cesarine can be a mother, aunt, grandmother or servant, but is above all the woman who takes care of the household.

* The products of Lazio highlighted in this meal were, Extra virgin olive oil from Sabina, pecorino romano cheese, ricotta romana cheese, gradoli beans, Cesanese del Piglio wine and Cannellino del Lazio wine.

* Source: Home Food

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